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It was classed as a Utility garment, and within a year, 75,000 had been snapped up. McCardell also hated the clumpy, notoriously difficult to wear wedge and platform shoes, preferring to exploit the US rationing exemption on play shoes and ballet slippers. In 1944, she asked Capezio, the leading New York maker of ballet shoes, to create an outdoor version of their ballet slippers with stronger soles and heels. The US government regulations on fabric and clothing were quickly lifted after the war.

But he lost the argument, and the United States lost its battle to be the center of the fashion world. Paris, led by Dior, had won. Rumor had it that the longer length had simply been a means of increasing sales for Dior’s financial backer, textile industrialist Marcel Boussac. Whatever the truth was, six years after its establishment, the fashion house of Dior had expanded into six companies, sixteen associated enterprises, twenty-eight workrooms, and over 1,000 employees. The New Look was to influence the world of haute couture for ten years.

Laver, James. Costume and Fashion (Thames & Hudson, 1995) Martin, Richard. American Ingenuity: Sportswear 1930s1970s (Yale, 1998) O’Hara, Georgina. The Encyclopedia of Fashion (Harry N. Abrams, 1986). Olian, JoAnne. Everyday Fashions of the Forties as pictured in Sears Catalogs (Dover, 1992) Peacock, John. Twentieth Century Fashion: The Complete Sourcebook (Thames & Hudson, 1993) Peacock, John. Fashion Sourcebook: The Forties (Thames & Hudson, 1998) Peacock, John. Men’s Fashion: The Complete Sourcebook (Emerald, 1997) Peacock, John.

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A Look at Impressionist Art by J. Jean Robertson


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